POINTS
Update 24th Dec. 05
Here is a drawing intended to show the rail profiles at different places on a typical point. You will
see that in most instances it involves trimming the foot of the rail - for which I use a cutting disc in a large grinder.
The gap between the stock rails (the running rails) and the check rails is determined by the back-to-back dimension of your wheelsets.
It should also be said that it is perfectly possible (and easier) to make checkrails etc. and even blades - out of suitable flat bar on edge which can then weld straight to steel ties.
My technique for building trackwork is to use welders and grinders. I weld the rails to steel ties in order to a) aid fabrication, b)
keep everything exactly the right shape and c) speed. This also means the part built or finished point can be man-handled and moved around
without fear of it changing shape....
I use angle-grinders for cutting and profiling so that I can make all the parts on site - instead of having to mill blades or noses in the workshop
and risk them not being quite right and having to alter them.
In full size the technique is to order a switch of such-and-such an angle - which is fine when you've got Clapham Junction on the drawing board,
but actually I find I get a better job by defining and building the point in its actual location, being able to fair the point into existing curves etc.
Earlier this summer, we had a work weekend at Pulborough which amongst other major jobs included the building of a new single slip
to allow access up the new extension. This was built using exactly the same techniques - but took three days instead of the one day
necessary for a point!
However, it should be noted that at the end of the blades, the rail needs to be kinked in (about 12" - 18" from the end) and then trim both sides of the rail head to leave the web over the full height
. A similar trick needs performing when sculpting the nose.........
The accepted standard for 'fine scale' locos and stock (i.e. standard gauge outline) is a back-to-back of 9.6" or 9 5/8". This means that you should be looking at a distance of
around 9.3 - .5 between the outer faces of the check rails. When running stock with larger flanges, this may be significantly less (leaving a wider flange-way).
Of course the purpose of the check rails and wing rails (those either side of the nose) is to ensure that wheelsets cannot go the wrong way past the nose (or indeed strike the nose).
Therefore it is always sensible to check the positions by running some wheels over the formation as you are building it....
My recollection is that the points on the Hilton Valley Railway were entirely made from flat bar - thus obviating the need for 75% of the cutting and grinding. They looked fine
(I thought) and were certainly practical........
September's work weekend at Pulborough included the building of a curved point to allow the return from the extension onto
the existing main line.
I got talked into the job.....
The tools I use are: 9" angle grinder with both grinding and cutting discs, a 4 1/2" grinder, large hammer, chalk, tape measure and stick welder.
The rails are rolled to the correct curvature,
then laid out in situ to make sure that it's going where you want!
The shape of the point is defined, with the nose cut and welded
The nose is finished, but the wing rails
still need tweaking out at the ends - note the notching of the rail foot on both sides to allow easy bending
Awaiting check rails and ties
Sculpted blades now finished
Awaiting check rails - note the welding of wing rails to the nose
The heart of the finished point, with nose, wing and check rails
Defining the shape of the slip to match the existing and proposed trackwork
rails are welded to the basic shape of the slip
Marking up to make a nose in situ
Stock rails and noses completed
Filling the gaps....
Blades roughed out, still needing check rails
Completed single slip ready for sleepering